Fred Beckey was a legendary American rock climber, mountaineer and author, who made hundreds of first ascents of some of the tallest peaks and most important routes throughout Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and the Pacific Northwest. He was widely regarded as one of the most influential and prolific climbers of all time, and a pioneer of the sport. He died on October 30, 2017, at the age of 94, of natural causes in his Seattle home. This article will explore his remarkable life and achievements, as well as the circumstances of his death.
Early Years and Climbing Career
Fred Beckey was born in Düsseldorf, Germany, in 1923, and emigrated to the United States with his parents and brother in 1925. He grew up in Seattle, Washington, where he developed a passion for climbing at an early age. He joined the Boy Scouts and the Mountaineers club, and made his first solo ascent of Boulder Peak in the Cascades at the age of 12. He soon became known for his daring and adventurous climbs, often with his brother Helmut or other partners. He made many first ascents of summits in the Olympic and North Cascade ranges, as well as the second ascent of Mount Waddington in Canada, which was then considered the most difficult climb in North America.
After serving as an instructor in the 10th Mountain Division during World War II, Beckey studied business administration at the University of Washington, but soon realized that climbing was his life’s focus. He never married or had children, and never pursued a conventional career or financial security. He dedicated his life to exploring and climbing new routes, often living out of his car or couch-surfing with friends. He became a prolific guidebook author, writing dozens of books that documented his climbs and inspired generations of climbers. He also participated in several expeditions to the Himalayas, Alaska, and South America, where he made more first ascents of challenging peaks.
Climbing Style and Legacy
Fred Beckey was known for his relentless and obsessive pursuit of new routes, his meticulous research and preparation, his bold and creative climbing style, and his disregard for fame or recognition. He often climbed with some of the best climbers of each generation, but also preferred to climb with lesser-known partners who shared his vision and enthusiasm. He was notorious for his eccentric and frugal lifestyle, his flirtatious and humorous personality, and his ability to charm his way into getting rides, food, gear, and companionship. He was also respected for his vast knowledge and experience, his mentorship of young climbers, and his contribution to the climbing literature and culture.
Fred Beckey is widely regarded as one of the greatest climbers of all time, and one of the most influential figures in the history of the sport. He made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber, and many of them are considered classics or test pieces. He also established many new routes that are still unrepeated or unclimbed. He received numerous awards and honors for his achievements, including the American Alpine Club’s Lifetime Honorary Membership, the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, and the King Albert Medal of Merit. He was also featured in several documentaries and books, including the 2017 film Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, and his own autobiography, A Life on the Edge.
Cause of Death and Final Days
Fred Beckey died of natural causes in his Seattle home on October 30, 2017, at the age of 94. He was surrounded by his close friends and biographer, Megan Bond, who helped him manage his affairs in his final years. According to Bond, he had a good death and a great life. He had suffered from congestive heart failure for decades, and his health had deteriorated in the last few months of his life. He was unable to climb or travel, but he remained active and engaged, working on his books, giving lectures, and planning future trips. He never lost his passion and curiosity for climbing and the mountains, and he never gave up on his dreams.
Fred Beckey’s death was mourned by the climbing community and the public, who celebrated his life and legacy. He was remembered as a legend, an icon, a pioneer, a mentor, a friend, and a hero. He was also praised for his courage, his spirit, his generosity, and his humor. He was buried in a private ceremony at the Evergreen-Washelli Cemetery in Seattle, where his parents and brother are also buried. His ashes were also scattered in some of his favorite climbing areas, including the North Cascades and the Wind River Range. He left behind a remarkable legacy of climbs, books, stories, and memories, that will continue to inspire and challenge climbers for generations to come.
