Dane Kealoha, one of the most influential and respected surfers of all time, passed away on May 10, 2023, at the age of 64. His family confirmed that he died peacefully after a long fight with cancer that was kept private from the public. Kealoha was known for his powerful and innovative surfing style, especially his mastery of the tube and his invention of the pigdog stance. He was also a pioneer of the Hawaiian surfing culture and a fierce competitor on the world tour. In this article, we will look at his life, career, achievements, and legacy.
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Early Life and Surfing Beginnings
Dane Bryon Kalei Kealoha was born on July 2, 1958, in Honolulu, Hawaii. He was the son of a pure-blooded Hawaiian carpenter father and grew up surfing on the world-famous shores of Waikiki in the late ’60s. He tried surfing for the first time at age 10, accompanied by his father, but after wiping out on his opening wave, he swam for shore crying, ran across the street, and threw his arms around a tree. He didn’t surf again until age 14.
At 5’9″, 185 pounds, with thighs like a fullback, Kealoha was a born power surfer. He rode in a wide stance, slightly hunkered over, pressing his board into deeply chiseled turns and cutbacks. He also had an infallible sense of where to find speed on any given wave and Zen-like composure while inside the tube. He won the Hawaii state surfing title in the boys’ division in 1973, at the young age of 15, showcasing his natural talent.
Professional Career and Achievements
Kealoha turned pro in 1976 and quickly rose to the top ranks of the world tour. He was one of the main rivals of Mark Richards, the four-time world champion from Australia, and often pushed him to his limits. Kealoha finished second to Richards in 1980, but many believe that he could have won the title if not for some bad luck and poor tactics in some crucial events.
Kealoha was also a dominant force in Hawaii, where he won several prestigious contests, including the Duke Kahanamoku Classic in 1983 and the Pipeline Masters in 1984. He was also a regular standout at Backdoor Pipeline and Sunset Beach, where he carved up the waves with creativity and ferocity.
Kealoha’s most lasting contribution to surfing was his invention of the pigdog stance, a compact drop-knee method of riding the tube that allowed backside surfers to ride nearly as deep inside the wave as frontside surfers. He developed this technique in the early ’80s and used it to great effect at Pipeline and other hollow waves around the world. His pigdog stance is still widely used by surfers today.
Kealoha retired from competitive surfing in 1987 and focused on his family and business ventures. He had a significant partnership with Quiksilver, where he managed a store in Ward Village and opened two Roxy stores in Oahu and Maui. He also remained active in surfing as a mentor and coach to younger generations.
Legacy and Tributes
Kealoha is widely regarded as one of the greatest surfers of all time and a legend of Hawaiian surfing. He was admired for his raw power, fearless attitude, graceful style, and tuberiding skills. He was also respected for his aloha spirit, generosity, humility, and loyalty.
Many surfers and fans paid tribute to Kealoha after his death, expressing their admiration and gratitude for his influence and inspiration. Shaun Tomson, the 1977 world champion from South Africa who was one of Kealoha’s closest friends and rivals, wrote on his social media page:
“When I first met Dane back in 1976, he immediately became one of my favorite surfers – absolute raw power and foot to the floor attitude. No close together ballerina feet softness, but a powerful and beautiful classically pure Hawaiian style, charting back to the great Eddie Aikau.
Dane was on the cutting edge of progression – inventing the backside pig dog technique at Pipe and winning the Masters in 1983, and carving up Backdoor and Sunset with creativity and ferocity.
He was a truly gifted tube-rider, attacking the spinning tunnels with machismo, commitment and an attacking rhythm like a Hawaiian warrior going into battle.”
Kealoha is survived by his mother, two brothers, four sons, three daughters, and two grandchildren. His family said that he died peacefully after fighting the good fight. They also thanked everyone for their love and support during this difficult time.
Dane Kealoha will always be remembered as a surfing icon who left an indelible mark on the sport and the culture. He will be missed by many, but his legacy will live on in the waves he rode and the hearts he touched.
